Tuesday, 26 January 2010

Miercoles revisted

A combination of too much work, too much curiosity and, ok I'll admit it, too much procrastination, has meant that this week's post is not what I intended. I will be away all next week and I am desperately trying to get various projects finished. And the intended subject for this weeks post has become mired in such an overwhelming mess of statistics, personages, and logistics that it isn't finished. Oh yes, and when I went to get some pictures my camera's battery ran out - which didn't help. But I asure you it will be worth the wait.

Last October I wrote about a neighbourhood that made me feel uneasy. I commented that even the somewhat stark graffiti felt threatening. With regular twice weekly visits I have become to feel more comfortable and found areas that while not the most pleasing on the eye, go some way to relieving my anxiety. And I received an e-mail from an ex-pat resident of the area who claimed I was being too hard on the place. He's probably right!

And I have revisited the graffiti and found that some is far from frightening. For instance, what indolent youth with his hat on backwards could have created this Christmas Card scene below?


And which menacing lout could have produced such beauty here?



And while I am not sure what this artist has been smoking, he obviously believes in angels.



You have to admit, the detail is quite amazing. And I will also admit that quite frankly the walls these works adorn would have been far uglier without the artwork. Hey, how about that - Graffiti as a public service. Who would have thought?

Even the lesser works show promise:



Ok, I know this is not even in the same league as the first three, but with a few strokes of the spray paint the artist has produced a comic book style portrait that conveys some emotion.

Actually, the alley where this public art is on display has now become a fixture on my route. I always have my camera because somewhere in this 'hood there are some people of real talent. Although there is still the odd menacing design, although I think the one below has a comic effect.


The foliage softens the impact somewhat, don't you think?

Wandering the streets of central Madrid there is one building where graffiti has been officially sanctioned.


This building is covered with curious scawls. So I was amused to see that a notice, just slightly out of picture in the bottom right corner, proclaimed the following



Which begs the question - where would they stick them.

Anyway, I beg my e-mailer's pardon. His barrio is not so bad. In fact it has some quite remarkable examples of modern architecture, which I will get to in a later post, once the statistically mired one I am working on at the moment is completed and I have returned from my week away.
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Monday, 18 January 2010

The Last Journey of Columbus

By Richard Morley.


In 1492 Columbus sailed the Ocean Blue. He left Palos on the 3rd of August and arrived in the Caribbean on October the 11th, seventy days later.


In the last three months of 2009 it has taken him twelve days longer to move just one hundred metres.



Now you see it >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Now you don't!

That journey began at the beginning of October and he finally arrived on the 15th of December. That one hundred metres took eighty two days. And when he arrived not only had he been misdirected, but the great discoverer of a new land has been isolated with water all around him.

In yet one more example of the ayuntamiento moving the street furniture, his column has been moved from the corner of his eponymous plaza and placed in the in the centre of one of the busiest intersections in Madrid.

When I wrote about the Plaza Colon some months ago a comment from a reader in Barcelona pointed out that while Columbus’s column there was higher, at least the one in Madrid had him facing west, towards the New World he discovered. Now, to add insult to injury, in his new position he faces south.

Part of this great remodelling of the city, the wonderful “Plan E” that is designed to provide jobs for the jobless, was a redesign of the confluence of The Paseos de Castellana and Recoletos with the Calles of Goya and Génova. These roads meet at an intersection that a few short months ago had a very active elliptical fountain. In mid summer that was all swept away and I remember thinking that was sensible as it’s a busy intersection and the fountain really impeded the traffic flow. Now the fountains have been replaced by a pool of water with Columbus marooned on a small island in its centre.

So basically, after months of work, nothing has changed and while it might be more aesthetically pleasing to have Columbus face the oncoming traffic coming up from the Paseo de Recoletos, all symbolism has been lost.

Apart from providing work for the unemployed I really fail to see the reason for this.

I have to visit the Plaza Colon twice every week, so I watched while the work progressed with some curiosity. Where he stood before, in the corner of the plaza, visitors could get a close up view of the relief carvings at the base of the column in safety. Now it would be a brave tourist indeed who attempted to defy the traffic for a few digital pictures to take back home.


In his previous spot he stood aloft, triumphantly surveying his world. In the centre of the paseo he now seems isolated and reduced in stature by the towering building behind him. A great man has been diminished.

But this is not the first time he has been moved. Since the time the column was first erected in the late 1800s by his descendants, not by a grateful nation, Madrid seems to have been uncomfortable with wherever they put him.


A hundred years ago he stood not far from where he is now, but the plaza de Colon was then a place of peace, a garden of tranquillity, at least judging from photos of the time.

The monument, base and column by Arturo Mélida and the Italian Marble statue of Columbus on top by Jerónimo Suñol, was erected between 1881 and 1885 in what was then named the Plaza de Santiago, or Saint James’ Square. This was renamed the Plaza de Colón in 1893. With the demolishing of the Royal Mint, which stood on the Calle Serrano side of the plaza, in 1970, the plaza was remodelled into an open, mostly concrete area, and an area known as the “Jardines de Descubrimiento”, the Gardens of Discovery, containing the huge, monolithic monument by Joaquín Vaquero Turcios dedicated to the men and vessels of Columbus’s voyage. At the moment the view of much of these “Macro Sculptures” is obscured by the portacabins of the company charged with the remodelling of the Calle Serrano and the high speed rail link between Atocha and Chamartin. Unfortunately I doubt they will be moving those for some time yet.


All wrapped up and nowhere to go.
So, at the beginning of October I watched as Columbus was hoisted from his pinnacle and dumped, wrapped in green netting, rather unceremoniously on the roadside. Then painstakingly the column and then the base was removed slice by slice. Piece by piece each section was laid behind a flimsy security fence in the gutter of the Paseo De Recoletos. One of Madrid’s priceless monuments could have been crushed to dust under the wheels of some passing juggernaut with a single instance of careless driving.










Each lump of carved stone was laid out like the pieces of some crazy three dimensional jigsaw. A couple of people could be seen, clipboards in hand, wandering around checking it was all there. Across the road – actually, in the middle of the road – workmen began working on the new plinth. After checking, a small front loader, weaving through the interminable traffic, carried the bits across. Another worrying time, I’m sure.


But before they could start erecting the column in its new location they had to wait for the last part of the base to be sliced away from the old column. This was either very complicated or simply a matter of trying to demolish something indestructible. This last phase of the dismantling went on for weeks. The work hidden behind scaffolding and safety netting and it was disconcerting to hear the sound of pneumatic drills working on such delicate frescos.

But to give them their due, when all was ready, the new column went up in a fraction of the time it took to get the thing down. Now, pristinely shiny white, the great man now surveys the traffic coming up Recoletos while pointing the way to Atocha Railway station. I suppose this time of high speed trains is a New World of sorts!

Post Script: The base of the old column seems to have proved too tough for the demolishers. They have concreted over the rough surface and left it in place. So, like London's Trafalgar Square, Madrid now has its own "empty plinth". In London it seems to be used for very strange temporary displays. Suggestions below, please, for what Madrid's empty plinth could be used for.


The Empty Plinth.

Yes, I know! I finished the last sentence with a preposition. Please don't comment on that!

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Saturday, 9 January 2010

Choice Pics

This blog is a year old. I did wonder when I began if I could maintain regular postings, but Madrid is such a wonderful, diverse and interesting city that many of the things I have written almost presented themselves. I hope that you have enjoyed reading about them as much as I have enjoyed researching and writing them.
I am never hardly without my camera and it has been gratifying that on more than one occasion I have received a comment saying they like the photographs that accompany the posts. But I use the photographs only as illustration. I have no delusions about my artistry or skill when I take a picture. The camera is a cheap 6 Mega Pixel Casio and basically just point and shoot.

However, sometimes the picture is better than I could ever hope for, and occasionaly, I am quite proud how pure serrendipity has produced such a good shot. Out of the hundreds, maybe thousands of pictures I have taken, the laws of chance have produced some that have become favourites - for one reason or another. Below I present a few that I quite like. Some for their drama, some for their humour, and some just for the sake of interest. I hope you enjoy then too.

The first I like because of the sheer weirdness of seeing a date palm covered with snow. The tree stands outside the apartment where I live.



The flower pots below looked sad and desperately waiting for someone to plant bulbs in them. It was a sunny day in early spring.



Spring had arrived when I first visited the holocaust memorial in the Parque Juan Carlos. This simple monument, made from railways sleepers, bringing to mind the route taken by those who met their deaths in the concentrations camps, still has the power to move me each time I see it.



I have no real love of football, but the next picture of the Real Madrid Stadium reveals its TARDIS like qualities. From outside it is difficult to believe that the ground is as large as it actually is.



Up in the northern Madrid suburb of La Moraleja, where the streets are named after flowers, I found this small flower bed beside the road. It looked colourful enough to be snapped.



I love puns, but my Spanish is not yet good enough to actually construct my own. So I was quite proud of myself to understand the witty slogan on the side of this paper recycling skip. "Papel" means both paper and a role that someone would play in a theatrical production - or in life. So it could read either, "Your paper is important", or "Your role (in recycling) is important. Well, I think it's clever.



Just in case you don't realise, the shop below sells sweets!



I have shown examples of talented grafitti before. This isn't one of them, but something in the humour just took my fancy.  Mind you, the artist's spelling could improve a little.



Where virgins are sacrified. The great red doughnut at the Parque Juan Carlos.



Sometimes I forget to look up and see how blue the sky is.



One of four stained glass windows in the Basilica of Our Lady of Atocha.



In the Parque de Berlin. Just having a rest.



The KIO towers at the Plaza Castilla. I took this across a modernesque park built above a water treatment plant. There's something sort of science fiction about it.



The Cuatro Torres on a grey day.



The business area from Nuevos Ministerios. I like the contrast of the flowers with the stark architecture beyond.



One of the first pictures I ever took in Madrid. In the corner of the Plaza Mayor. A newbie at the time it seemed an iconic picture of Spain.



The Atocha Memorial. People just stand and read the messages - and mourn.



Revealing my "freaki" side. A sliced through diesel engine ar the Railway museum in Delicias.



A couple of Saturdays before Christmas I witnessed children gazing in wonder at this shop window - and cursed as, for once, I didn't have my camera. A week later, this time photographically armed for something else entirely, the same scene presented itself. This time I got the pic. Sometimes, Christmas truly is magic.



I hope you have liked the pictures. Feel free to comment, but not anonymously please, in the space provided below.
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Wednesday, 6 January 2010

It's over.

By Richard Morley.

Right! That’s over for another year. The last roast potato has been eaten. The last slice of jamón Serrano has been tweaked off the tabla jamonera. The New Year Madness in Sol was enjoyed by all who ate their grapes and the three kings have brought the presents for children of all ages. Now we can return to work, the kids can return to school and hopefully, we can return to the weight we had before this month long celebration of navidad.


Don’t get me wrong. I love this time if Madrid: The lights, the belenes, the illuminated streets and the chestnuts. And yesterday evening’s parade for the arrival of the three kings was quite spectacular. In fact it was probably the best I have ever seen – and I didn’t go. I watched it on television.

Two years ago I arrived early for the cabalgada. I had a great viewing position. But then the children began arriving and I, of course, allowed them to stand in front of me. By the time the parade went past I was so far back from the barricade I hardly saw a thing. Last year I thought I had a good view, but when the parade passed by, all the little children were hoisted on to daddy’s shoulders and obscured anything but the highest passing float. Later, I went with friends to a bar and had a much better view on the wide screen television on the wall.

So this year I decided to stay at home in the warm only to see high-necked scarlet giraffes, a ballet trapeze act suspended from two hundred helium filled balloons and a huge mechanical elephant. These things would have been visible from the back of the crowd. So now I am a little sad I didn’t go.


Next year, then!

I celebrated Christmas Eve over a meal with a group of friends, Christmas day with another, enjoyed a splendid dinner party between then and New year, drank too much to greet 2010 and commemorated the Three Kings at a marvellously ENGLISH roast beef lunch. The amazing thing was there were only two native English there and were privileged to watch how Spaniards like spicy English mustard and glazed parsnips followed by hot apple pie and custard.

No one threw their cutlery in protest at being forced to eat an English meal. In fact one Spanish lady commented, ironically, “And they say the English don’t have good food!” She, incidentally, asked for more mustard, and being about thirty minutes old by this time, it was really hot. (Yes, we prepared our own. It did not come from a jar!)

Now I think I don’t have to eat for at least a week. If I made New Year resolutions it would be for more exercise and to go on a diet. But I don’t do such foolish things, so we will have to see. But I hate clothes shopping, so I will have to fit into these trousers again!

Looking at my calendar I see no public holidays between now and Easter. So, it’s back to work for all. Unfortunately for my eardrums the kids I share an apartment with don’t return to school until next Monday. And then it will be peace on Earth.

Friday, 1 January 2010

New Year resolutions

By Richard Morley.

Dear Señor Gallardon and Señora Aguirre,


Madrid is a wonderful town that I have chosen to call home. Considering I could have chosen just about anywhere in the world to live, you can feel proud that that out of all the cities in all the world I happened to choose this one.

2009 was a difficult year and let us hope that 2010 will be better. But do you know what you have to do? We must all have a plan. And as a start of a new year is a good time to make plans I thought I would lend a hand.

And so, here are, what I believe, should be your New Year resolutions for the city.

1.Please stop the arguments between the City and the Comunidad. Out of the two of you, Esperanza is the best manager so let her get on with it.

2. Stop moving the street furniture. Moving the bear in Sol, Colon’s Column in the Plaza de Colon etc is just busy work. Spend the money on something more important.

Like:

3. An efficient rainwater drainage system in the centre of the city. I know it doesn’t rain much, but when it does the streets get quickly flooded.

4. Speed up the building of a direct rail link between the Airport and the centre. Tourists' number one complaint is the line changes they have to make from Barajas to Sol.

5. Copy Barcelona and have the metro run through the night on Fridays and Saturdays and special events like New Year and La Noche en Blanco. To attract a couple of million people into the city and then to give them a few overcrowded buses on which to get home shows a lack of foresight.

6. Get tough with the graffiti artists. A very few of them show talent, but the rest create a terrible eyesore in a beautiful city.

7. Pass laws prohibiting the blowing of car horns at 3am outside my bedroom window – and anyone else’s bedroom window.

8. Have the tourist office promote something other than the Three Ps of the Prado, the Palacio Real and the Plaza mayor. Madrid has some wonderful parks and some hidden treasures of museums.

9. Make a licensing difference between Bars and Discothèques. If I want music so loud I can’t hear myself think I know I could go to a disco. (Perish the thought!) If I want to have an easy conversation with friends then I could go to a bar. Televisions and one armed bandits should also only be allowed in newly designated “Sports Bars”.

But the main resolution should be to maintain our wonderful city as the joyous place it is. I swear the people of Madrid are the friendliest I have met anywhere. The waiters could teach their counterparts in Paris a thing or two about customer relations. The public transport system could teach almost every other city in the world a few lessons.

I don’t know why Europe chooses a new city of culture every year. Madrid should be the permanent city of culture. And so much of it is free!

But now, please do something about the weather. I am fed up with the rain.



Happy New Year to all.

If you have any resolution we could pass on to the people who run our city, then don’t hesitate to comment below. Oh, and do try not to be anonymous. I like to know who you are.

Monday, 28 December 2009

Lucky Thirteen

By Richard Morley,

Well, we are approaching the end of another year. It hardly seems a whole decade since we were worrying about the Y2K meltdown and whether the world would end.


It didn’t and the world kept on spinning.

But it is spinning a little slower than it was.

Astronomers do not measure the earth’s rotation against any clock, but against the sun. According to them one revolution is known as a solar day and on average this lasts 86,400 seconds.

Or it did. Now it takes a little longer.

This is nothing new. Way back in 1895 an American astronomer, Simon Newcomb worked all this out and published his findings in a book called "Tables of the Motion of the Earth on its Axis and Around the Sun". Despite not having the very accurate atomic measuring equipment that we have today, his work was pretty good for its time. These days of course scientist can measure time down to the squillionth of a second and the people at the International Earth Rotation and Reference Systems Service (IERS) and the International Union of Geodesy and Geophysics (IUGG) have news for us.

2010 will be a little late in arriving!

Now I hear you asking, “What the heck has this got to with A blog about Spain?”

You could also ask, “What effect will this delay in time have on the fruterías, the fruit sellers, of the country?”

It’s all to do with the chiming of a clock and the eating of grapes.

At midnight on the 31st of December tens of thousands of people will gather in the Plaza Del Sol. They will be joined via television and radio by the rest of the country, who sensibly did not come to the Plaza Del Sol. I went one year and while it was great fun, but because of the crush I didn’t move off the same spot of pavement for four and a half hours. We were in Sol because it is the centre of Spain and the clock on the top of the offices of the Comunidad de Madrid is Spain’s Big Ben, Sol is Spain’s Time’s Square. It marks the official change of the year and the chimes of its bell, transmitted all over Spain, will mark the countdown into a new decade.

For each chime of the bell the Spanish will eat one grape. To eat these twelve grapes in the time it takes the midnight hour to chime is considered auspicious for the new year. (Apparently ladies are meant to wear red underwear at that time for the same reason, but I am writing about a more public display of superstition!)

Apparently this custom came about in the 1930s when, following a bumper grape harvest, a clever marketing man came up with this strategy to sell off the surplus grapes. Now the profits are made by street vendors who buy a bunch of grapes having, let’s say, two hundred small seedless grapes to the kilo, for less than a euro and sell them in packets of twelve for one euro a packet. That’s a pretty good mark up. And a pretty good income when you consider those tens of thousands gathered in Sol!

But this year might catch them out.

Thanks to the scientists at the IERS and IUGG 2009 will have a couple of “leap seconds” added to it, meaning 2010 will be later in arriving. For an accurate countdown into the new year the clock in Sol will actually chime thirteen times and the grape eaters will have to eat thirteen pieces of fruit to assure good luck for the forthcoming year.

So, whether you are foolhardy enough to venture into Sol for the New Year celebrations, or are watching it on TV, make sure you have an extra grape ready. Thirteen for good luck. That makes a change!

And I hope someone has told the Chinese street vendors of Madrid.

On another topic entirely, today is the La Día de los Inocentes. It commemorates in the catholic calendar the day that King Herod, in his desperate search for the infant Jesus, had all the newborns put to death.

Strangely, to the Spanish this day is the equivalent of the British and American April the first, All Fools Day, or the French Jour de Poisson. A day for playing tricks on your friends. It’s one of those little cultural differences I love about Spain. Of course, I would never stoop so low!
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Thursday, 24 December 2009

I’m dreaming of a whi... wet Christmas!



The day after I wrote the last post, where I predicted that although it was cold we would not have any snow, we had snow. That will teach me to believe Google weather forecasts. We had so much snow Madrid was in chaos. There were stranded cars, jack-knifed trucks, buses delayed, schools closed and people totally unable to get to work. How much snow does Madrid need to cause all that trouble? About two centimetres, it seems!

I repeat – TWO Centimetres. About four fifths of an inch!

Ok, it made the roads a little slippy, but it was slush. The temperature had finally risen above freezing. There was no ice. Compared with what fell in the UK and the US around the same time this was nothing. But it almost brought Madrid to a standstill.

But that was not the fault of the weather. What caused the catastrophic chaos were drivers that hadn’t got a clue how to drive in such conditions. I saw drivers perplexed because no matter how fast they spun their wheels, they made no progress. I saw drivers approach traffic lights at normal dry condition speed, apply brakes and wonder why they kept on going. I saw corners taken too fast and watched as the rear of the car attempted to overtake the front. And this was, of course, the fault of the weather, not the lack of skills or awareness needed for such conditions. The sanest drivers were those who kept their cars in the garage.

But in a matter of hours most of the snow had disappeared, or had been swept up into neat little piles which will now take days to melt.


But when the snow melted where did all that water go? Well, judging by all the buckets standing in puddles in ticket halls and along platforms, most of it has seeped into the Metro. The world’s best Metro is not waterproof. Hmm! Slight oversight there, chaps. It’s fortunate that the power to the trains is via overhead centenary rather than a third rail like on the London underground. This meant that the metro employee with the squeegee could just sweep it all on to the tracks.

It didn’t snow on Tuesday. Instead our lives were made miserable by a continuous, all pervading fall of icy sleet, which in the early evening became a serious downpour. I was meeting a friend at the Goya El Corte Inglés. By the time I arrived the streets were running torrents which divers did not even try to avoid. Pavement bound pedestrians were not happy. Hmm! Madrid drivers again. There seems to be a thread here.

However, in avoiding the rain I made a new discovery. My friend told me of a pub I had not heard of. The Geographic Club. It’s a wonderful place devoted to the joy of travel and exploration. Outside the front is a wonderful montage of stained glass. Inside the walls are lined with souvenirs from all over the world. There’s a definite feeling of the Jules Verne about the place. There’s a model of Thor Heyerdahl’s papyrus boat Ra, African assegais, ebony carvings, which might have been shrunken heads, but I didn’t look too closely, and the basket of a hot air balloon sitting among all the tables. Non smokers will be pleased to note it is a non-smoking pub, one of the few in Madrid. My friend had the largest Irish coffee I have ever seen. I had a beer which at first I thought had also been watered down, but then realised it was Heineken. Still, you can’t have everything, I suppose. But the place seemed very popular. It’s worth a visit for the atmosphere, if not the beer!

The Geographic Club is located at 141 Calle de Alcalá.

Wednesday saw some last minute Christmas shopping only to find on the return home that there will have to be some last second shopping on Christmas eve. But the temperature has climbed sixteen degrees since the weekend, meaning it now up to a maximum of eight, which is a little better. Met a friend for lunch which was fun, but she was the last friend still here. Everyone else seems to have departed Madrid for Grandma’s village. I hope they all have a good time.


Those of us left here certainly plan to. Oh, and the reason I write I am think we will have a wet Christmas: If my prediction was as good as last weekend, it should ensure a dry one. I had better go and check the sea-weed.
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Sunday, 20 December 2009

So this is Christmas - Nearly

By Richard Morley.

It’s half past ten on a beautiful Sunday morning. There is hardly a cloud in the sky. Outside my window I can hear the birds singing and the chatter of passers by. The only downside is that outside, the temperature is MINUS five. It’s actually risen by three degrees since I awoke. It seems we have a blast of arctic air that’s come straight down from the north pole which veered left when it reached the Iberian Peninsular.

The weather presenters on the telly have been talking of little else for days. If there is one thing the British and the Spanish have in common, it is talking about the weather. Everyone talks about it, no one does anything about it.

Thanks to the weather presenters we all knew that last night the temperature would drop to minus eight. Did that mean the powers-that-be who control the heating in my apartment block would leave it on overnight? Of course not! I awoke in the wee small hours as an icy chill permeated though the duvet. It’s just as well I have back-up bed coverings.


I lay the blame for this cold snap on the arrival of the ice queen in Madrid on Thursday evening. That was when, according to the ayuntamiento, Christmas officially began. Down in the Plaza Oriente, just in front of the Palacio Real, we were treated to a firework display and a small theatrical performance that hailed the arrival of navidad.


It was quite small scale compared to some displays I have witnessed here, but there was a good crowd of a few thousand people who enjoyed the fireworks and watched as a actress, the Ice Queen, in a very long dress indeed was hoisted fifteen metres above our heads and seemingly produced roman candles from her sleeves and lit up the night sky.


The musical accompaniment, which incongruously included a rendition of “Summertime” by Angelique Kidjo, one of my favourite African singers, was timed with the fireworks. Some were in pretty colours, but, as mentioned last post, the Spanish love things that go bang, so there were lots of loud explosions. Not everyone enjoyed that. One small boy sat on his daddy’s shoulders with his fingers firmly stuck in his ears.

It was a clear, crisp evening, and after the fireworks I wandered the narrow streets between the calles Mayor and Arenal seeing how my camera worked in dim light. Not bad for the cheap little “point and shoot” that it is – as you can see here.


Catredral de Nuestra Señora de la Almudena













Madrid is almost magical at this time of year. Every street has its illuminations, the shop windows full of wish-list goodies, the crowds squeezing into El Corte Inglés. Forecasts of revenues compared to last year are reckoned to be nearly ten per cent down, but that might be to “La Crisis” price reductions rather than less people buying. Certainly the packed metro carriages full of parcel and carrier bag encumbered shoppers did not seem to reflect any crisis at all.




Schoolchildren are looking forward to Monday, the last day before the Christmas break. Workers are longing for Wednesday, when they will begin their journeys back home for family celebrations. My landlady’s two sons, 12 and 14, have bought between them thirty euros worth of noisy fireworks. They spend hours excitedly pouring over catalogues displaying many types of these petardos, choosing, I am sure, the ones that make the loudest noise. All day long I hear explosions from all directions. In the apartment block canyons the sounds reverberate and rattle the windows. A couple of years ago, being startled by fireworks at three in the morning, would annoy me. Now I am so used to it I hardly notice.
 Madrid won’t have a white Christmas, although we did have some snow earlier in the week. The forecast shows increasing temperatures over the next week. I am pleased about that! But it will be a long wait until the hot weather, that tourists think Spain has all year round, returns.

Time to hibernate, I think.
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Tuesday, 15 December 2009

Are the Spanish noisy?

By Richard Morley.

I was travelling on the metro and filling the idle moments by listening to a Spanish lesson on my MP3 Player. At least I was trying to. A young man next to me was also listening to something on his MP3 player and IT WAS SO BLOODY LOUD I could not clearly hear my own. So it was no surprise for me to read that the EU, worried about the damage we are doing to our ears by listening to music at high volume, is planning some form of guideline, possibly legislation, regarding just how loud these devices should be.


Steven Russell of the European consumer lobby ANEC said, “There are up ten million Europeans, mainly young people, who are at risk of losing their hearing permanently in the next five years due to their personal listening habits”. He went on to say, “Some of the players on the market at the moment are capable of generating a volume beyond 115 decibels. In the workplace health and safety regulations state that this is a dangerous level that no employee should be exposed to it for more than thirty seconds”.

A consultant at Portland Road Hospital in London, Dr. Robin Yeoh, has reported that many young people are showing up at his clinic with hearing loss. “Many of them have been exposed to recreational noise in clubs and discos, but certainly personal music players play quite a large part in this. Once you damage the nerves of your inner ear, that’s permanent, there’s no medication, no surgery, no therapy that is going to recover it”.

Incidentally, I love his description of disco music as “recreational noise”!

Experts are hoping that the EU will impose an allowed level of MP3 players and public music to 85 decibels.

But this leads me to ask this question: Can the Spanish live without noise?

The Friday evening English Speaking Group that I help run here in Madrid used to meet in a bar where the purpose of the evening was to improve conversational skills. However, the owner insisted that while we were talking he would have a pianist bash out music.

“Can’t you ask him to stop?” I asked the owner.
“Music brings people in to the bar”, he replied.
“But we are already filling your bar”, I stated (it was quite small), “and we want to talk and are finding difficult to do so over the noise”.
But the pianist was kept on. We left.

We found another place. As it happens it is a disco bar, but in the basement they are quite happy to turn the music off for our meetings. When the meeting is finished we do not leave, but stay on, buy more drink and continue with more informal chit-chat. We like to do that. But, as soon as they realise the meeting is over the bar staff turn up the music – and I mean TURN UP THE MUSIC.

Why? There’s just us, at least at the beginning, but I notice that when other customers arrive they sit in groups trying to talk and are, like us, HAVING TO SHOUT over the boom boom boom emanating from the four large speakers in what is not a large room.

I was in Molly Malone’s, one of Madrid’s ever burgeoning number of Irish bars, (the beer is Heineken or Guinness, neither to my taste, but I was with friends!) a few evenings ago. The “music” was turned up to painful and the general cacophony was added to by everyone having to shout at each other. I ordered a drink, the barman asked me to repeat what I said, I did and still he didn’t hear me. I repeated my order and he had to lean across the bar to hear me. I commented that he wouldn’t have that problem if they turned down the volume.

I couldn’t hear his reply.

I was worried that this preoccupation with noisy bars was a sign that I was getting old, but I have heard this complaint from lots of Spaniards who are much younger than me. (Most people are!) They tell me that it is just impossible to talk to friends properly while having a drink.

The great intercambio, that wonderful institution that allows the Spanish and guiris to exchange their respective languages, is almost impossible in many bars. You just end up shouting at each other. One student asked me to meet her in a bar after work for lessons. She soon realised it was a waste of time – and her money.

Last Saturday evening a few of us met to practise our Spanish (and I need that practise!) and we met in a café in Chueca. By the time we had finished our first drink we had decided to go elsewhere. We could hardly hear each other and with the added difficulty of speaking another language we soon realised what we were attempting was impracticable.

Surprisingly it didn’t take us long to find somewhere where we were able to talk at a normal level, although we did increase our own volume a little when we started to discuss nuclear power; a contentious issue for one of our number. We continued to converse and even though there was music, it was never intrusive. Other patrons were also having quiet conversation. No one was having to shout. Why can’t all bars be like that?

But on the way home some twit on the metro decided we should all have the pleasure of listening to the tinny noises that came from his mobile telephone.

I have often contemplated kitting myself out with something similar to a terrorist waistcoat, only instead of explosive I would have an MP3 player and some powered speakers and when some idiot felt the need to “entertain” his fellow passengers with his half a watt of distorted, squawking, cacophonous drivel, I would drown him out with Bach’s Toccata and Fugue in D Minor or the Ride of the Valkyries – really loud. Yes, it would be just as anti-social, but much better quality, both in taste and sound.

But I doubt the Spanish could live with silence. Let’s admit it. They are a noisy bunch. Even in a cafe without music or a television showing a football match the general hubbub has to be several decibels higher that in any other European country. Someone once defined a Spanish conversation as six people all talking at the same time with none of them listening to the others. I have witnessed this with my own ears.

And don’t get me started on the glass rattling firework explosions that go off at three in the morning.

This is where a Spaniard would tell me, quite rightly, that if I don’t like it I should “go home”. As I said, quite rightly! Making noise is what they do. It defines one aspect of the Spanish character, that love of getting out of the house, meeting friends and shouting at each other, er, I mean, having a spirited conversation over a few beers. It’s a noise that says, “Hey, I like to be with you guys. But so we can talk, let’s be louder than that lot next to us”. In this respect, how can it be anti-social? It’s the very epitome of being sociable. And I won’t “go home” because I too, from time to time, have been part of that noisy rabble, because I feel included and they even put up with the terrible things I do to their language and because being shouted at over the noise means they want me hear what they have to say. It signifies, you are one of us.

Those times are fine when I want to be included. But I don’t want to have to fight against painful music levels in bars where I just want a quiet drink, I don’t want to hear the tish tish tish from the MP3 player of the guy next to me on the bus, I don’t want to have music played at me on the metro. And that includes the guy who plays the violin badly on line two!

And seriously, if levels of music, both personal and public, are so loud it causes physical disability, then I think something should be done about it. An argument of the anti-smoking lobby is that the staff in bars have a right to be protected from the supposed effects of second-hand smoke. If the volume of the music is above health and safety guidelines regarding noise in the workplace, then that should also be a consideration for bar owners.

If you disagree, let’s have a – quiet – conversation about it.

What do you think??

Saturday, 12 December 2009

Oh Very Small Town of Bethlehem.

By Richard Morley.

The Main Scene of the Nativity at the Belén del Ayuntamiento


Oh pueblecito de Belén, cuán quieto tú estás.
Los astros en silencio dan su bella luz en paz.
Mas en tus calles brilla la luz de redención
que da a todo hombre la eterna salvación.

The power of religion in Spain might not be as Strong as it was not that long ago, despite reprehensible measures taken by the church to affect voting in the parliament, but Christmas in this country still retains a spiritual side lost in the commercial bluster that signifies the festive season in other countries.

The story of the Nativity is very important in Spanish tradition. I wrote a couple of posts ago about Nativity scenes, or “Beléns”. Now those figures that were on sale in the Christmas market are now coming to a shop window near you – if you live in Madrid.


My greengrocer has one. So does the travel agent and the hairdresser around the corner. One of the banks is trying to serve both God and Mammon by displaying a very tiny crib. Some of these Belenes (ITALICS) would win no prizes for expertise or creativity. The hairdressers has basically arranged a few plastic figures of shepherds and angels, shoved in a couple of camels, and that’s it. It’s not really a nativity scene as there is no stable, no Holy family. But it makes a difference from the usual cans of hairspray and boxes of colouring that are normally on display.

Serving God and Mammon - my local Santander bank.

The pharmacist has gone for chintz, the local chiropractors have opted for simplicity over ostentation, and the double glazing showroom has just gone completely overboard. His window contains hundreds of little figures, buildings and, artistically, he has put the stable off to one side. He does this every year.









The Hairdressers.




The Pharmacy.











The Double Glazing Showroom





And it’s great! It’s a sign Christmas is almost here.

Some of the Beléns are much more professional – and expensive.

This year the ayuntamiento has called upon the services of a “Maestro Belenista”, José Luis Mayo Lebrija to create the figures and they has have been assembled by Enrique Haro. And, as you would expect, it is on a grand scale.

The Anunciation


Divided into three parts; the Annunciation, where the angel appears before the shepherds watching over their flocks; the stable scene with the baby Jesus being watched over by a doting mother and father; (Header Photograph) and finally, scenes of the journey of the three kings on their way to worship the new born.











The craftsmanship of the model-making is amazing.




 Scenes of everyday life








 The Belen can be found underground at the new tourist centre on the corner of the Calle de Goya and the Paseo de la Castellana at the Plaza Colon. If you have fifteen minutes, it is well worth the visit. It is open between 10am and 9pm until the 6th of January.


The Journey of the Three Kings


Another Belen created by José Luis Mayo Lebrija can be found in the Basílica Pontificia de San Miguel in the calle de San Justo, not far from the Plaza Mayor. Open from 10am to 2pm and 5:30 to 9 except during services.





The men who create these marvels have grouped themselves into the “Asociación de la Belenistas de Madrid”. They have their own exhibition in the Old Post office, the Real Casa de Correos in the Puerta del Sol. There you will find over 600 figures set among wonderfully crafted scenery. The whole thing weighs more than two and a half tons. Again, the exhibition will remain open until the 6th of January.


According to the “Madrid es Navidad” booklet given out free by the ayuntamiento, there are twenty four official Belens scattered around the town. Whether you are religious or not, they are worth a look just for the workmanship alone.


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